AFTER 23•05

Founder: Marusya Vaulina

Brand DNA

Neoclassicism with elements of romanticism and avant-garde, a combination of bright and basic colors, bold prints, in-house fabric production, and varied silhouettes ranging from fitted to moderate oversize.

Concept

AFTER 23•05 is about expressing each client's identity, crafted through personal selection of colors, fabric combinations, and perfect fit. No matter the social role, circumstances, or time, a woman wearing AFTER 23•05 remains true to herself before, during, and after.

Brand History

Marusya Vaulina, a graduate of the Engineering and Economics Faculty of the Ural State Mining University, began her career in the fashion industry while still a student, working at Bosco di Ciliegi and the Armani Collezioni brand, followed by a role in the WEDA Fashion Group holding. This rich marketing and management experience shaped her vision of what her own premium clothing brand should be. A meticulous approach to fabric quality and couture-level garment finishing became the foundation of AFTER 23•05’s DNA.

 

The brand's first collection in glam-sport style was created 10 years ago, and the brand’s signature item, which remains beloved by its fans, is the coat. Last year, Marusya and her team even released their own wool coat-suit fabric with a unique print.

 

Today, AFTER 23•05 produces middle-up segment collections in limited editions and operates in two atelier formats: bespoke and MTM (Made to Measure). Before its recent rebranding, Marusya’s brand was known as Atelier 23.05.

Blitz

Best time of day for creativity?
After 8 PM. When all the employees and clients have left, and no one distracts you from reflection. I used to have my own "meditation" ritual: laying out all my buttons, fabrics, matching them, sketching something. In short, creating
Ideal place for creativity?
The office, the workshop, the atelier. Especially our sanctum sanctorum—the atelier zone, where the team and I create together
Music track that most often plays when you feel like creating?
Most often, we create without music, as we have debates and discussions. So, the best music for creativity is the collegial debates on how to handle certain design elements and the silhouette of a model
Brand item you want to wear non-stop?
Definitely our outerwear—all its elements: insulated winter coats, kimonos, and, of course, our coats and coat-jackets made from our in-house fabric
Item you would pass on to your grandchildren with the words: "Let this remind you of me"?
Naturally, our coats, which are timeless and of the highest quality possible. They’re practically indestructible, so they can be passed down from generation to generation and will always be relevant
Favorite/least favorite part of the fashion process?
My favorite part is fittings. When you see how a piece of fabric and accessories come together to form a garment—it’s pure magic! I also love the synergy and creative process with my colleagues. My least favorite part is the bureaucracy, dealing with paperwork, reports, and documentation, but it’s still necessary
Which historical or literary character would you make the face of the brand?
We recently created a costume for Scarlett O'Hara as part of our collaboration with cosplay. Much like in the film, where she makes a dress out of green velvet curtains, we crafted a historically inspired outfit from drapery fabric (minus the crinolines and petticoats of that era, of course). I’m confident that Scarlett, with her spontaneity and zest for life, would make a perfect face for our brand. Audrey Hepburn’s character in "Breakfast at Tiffany’s" would also fit. Sometimes our looks channel Joan of Arc with her warrior style. But Scarlett is closest to us in spirit
What scent resonates most with your brand?
Vetiver, is something juicy and citrusy, sometimes with slightly heavier intellectual notes, but mostly something that evokes pleasant associations
What ideal location in the Urals would you choose for a collection photoshoot?
We once casually mentioned Konzhakovsky Kamen, and a month later, we were heading there for a shoot. For me, it’s still the mountains—because nothing is better than mountains, whether it’s the Northern or Southern Urals
The hardest part of creating a new collection?
Sketching, because I’m not a natural drawer. For our new collection, "Nedra," I even enlisted the help of Marina Fatikhova. I also sometimes struggle with color combinations, fabric textures, and ensuring the top and bottom pieces complement each other. But with the team, any challenge can be overcome
One word to describe your brand?
Eclecticism—combining what often seems incompatible
If you could collaborate with any celebrity (or character), who would it be?
The first person that comes to mind is Jane Birkin, with her charm, spontaneity, and boldness. She introduced unusual items into her wardrobe (like the famous wicker basket), which people initially found strange, but eventually started copying and celebrating these ideas
What will change fashion soon?
I’m confident that fashion will be shaped by communities, the unification of creative people regardless of where they live or their field of work. It’s important to "pollinate" each other with your own vision, and experience, and create something together. There’s huge potential in this!